I may, if I have any money left, fit a set of Jenvey throttle bodies.
I think they look real horny when you open the bonnet. To have that option, I have to use a cable operated throttle with an Omex ECU. A lot of this will apply to a Canems setup on a LS3 engine, but there will be differences. In particular a fly-by-wire throttle will not need an idle motor. The ECU manages the throttle opening at very low revs. On a cable setup we need an idle motor for the ECU to control air flow at very low revs.
Imagine sitting in the car. Left is nearside and right is offside. So we have no confusion when I say left or right side of the engine. Unlike the nurse who injected the wrong leg with anaesthetic when I was having my titanium rod screws removed.
The ECU loom has all the connectors labelled. They are:
ATS: Air Temperature Sensor. This connects to the little sensor that will screw into the bottom of the air inlet tube between the filter and the throttle body. Use a fibre washer on the sensor so it seals on the curved and chrome surface of the inlet tube.
MAP: Manifold Absolute Pressure. Small black block top right of the engine pointing outwards to the right. It is not used so tie back or remove the cable for it.
CPS: Crank Shaft Position Sensor. Situated at the right rear just above the starter motor.
CTS: Coolant Temperature Sensor. Front left side on the cylinder head. Just above the first exhaust port. Do not remove it, the ECU loom connector goes straight on.
TPS: Throttle Position Sensor. If Omex and cable throttle, AK will have sent you a replacement throttle opening, which comes with a position sensor. It will end up the the left side of the throttle body.
Lambda: Two of these. Oxygen sensors supplied by AK to screw into the exhaust headers, one each side.
Fan Relay: This will need to be spliced into the AK vehicle loom when you get it.
Earth: Figure out where to put it once you have the body on and the rest of the wiring in place.
Dash: As above.
Fuel Relay: You will need to obtain a simple relay, Halfords etc, to wire this into before connecting the other side of it to the fuel pump.
Idle: This is for cable throttles only. Mount the idle motor if you have one on the chassis cross member under the header tank and the air inlet tube. THere will be two hoses coming off it, one to the third connection on the left side of the air inlet tube, and one to a port vacated when the EVAP device was removed.
Fuel injectors 1-8: little connectors on top each cylinder head.
CAM: Camshaft position sensor. This is located low down front left of the engine block. The aperture for it faces downwards. Run the cable for this along the left side of the engine and down behind the alternator.
EVAP: Evaporative Emission Control System. Not used. Remove the sensor and cut or tie back this cable. See; Removing EVAP Sensor
Other sensors on the engine we don't use:
Knock sensors. Big black connectors on midway on each side of the block
Oil level sensor: Yellow connector on the right side of the sump (oil pan if you are from the States).
Other sensors/ports we do use:
At the rear of the block we find a black horizontal port that may have a red cover on it. This is to connect the vacuum tube to the brake servo.
Oil pressure and temperature: Right next to the vacuum tube. Remove any sensor already there and fit the ones from AK.
Second coolant sensor. This is rear right side on the cylinder head just by the most rearward exhaust port. It will be blocked off with a hex bolt. Remove the hex bolt and fit the AK supplied temp sensor. The connection for it will be up to the water temp gauge on the dash board.
Some pics of the sensors:
MAP sensor, not used
Coolant Sensor front left. Connection is from the ECU loom
Coolant sensor rear right, after you have removed the hex bolt and screwed this in.
Oil pressure and vacuum tube port with the red cover.
Here be the various connectors from AK. Let's number them 1 to 6 from left to right.
Number 2, screws into number 3. Number 3 screws into the cylinder head on the rear right side.
Number 5 screws into number 1. Number 6 screws into the side of number 5. Number 4 screws into the top of number 5.
Number 1 screws into something similar to number 3 which didn't make it to the photo shoot (but it can be sen lurking behind the red thing in the pics above).
Anyway, it screws into the rear engine block next to the vacuum port after the original oil pressure sensor is removed.
Clear? Good.
The thing is that when you come to screw things together you will swear blind they don't fit.
Some of these connectors have a slight conical shape, they will start off the first turn or two and then jam. But fear not. They are the correct thread, just needs a little lubrication and some careful persuading. Even so they will not completely seat together. Use thread lock or ptfe tape and screw in until it all gets too tight to go any further.
The two connectors with dowty washers (one of which missed the photo shoot) need careful tightening. They have a thin wall which can shear off. Use thread lock and tighten to a minimal torque. Don't actually use a wrench but guess at around 10lb/ft or so.
Chassis wiring
Before fitting the body, you'll want to wire up the fuel pump, speedo sensor and reverse switch on the gearbox. Run the wiring on the side or underside of the chassis top tube up into the engine bay. Label them and leave them with lots of length to play with. I covered them with split sleeving for protection.
For the fuel pump, realise that it draws a bit of current, possibly 8, 10 amps or more so make sure you have suitable wiring there. The speedo and gearbox connections are not so intense, being just on/off or signal connections.
On that subject, if you use the speedo sensor in the side of the TKO5/600, it will have two white wires. One is ground, the other is signal to the speedo in the dash. Thing is it doesn't matter which, just ground one, either one, and use the other for the speedometer.
The reverse switch is just on/off so both wires are effectively the same.
Chassis wiring prior to fitting the body.
ECU Loom Routing
If you have a Gen III chassis, the top rail round the engine has its uses. I fed both legs of the cabling for the injectors along the right side, fixed with tie wraps (actually what are called 'flatties' from CBS, looks better than the knobbly ties with a square block sticking out), passed the leg for the left side under the throttle body and then back along under the fuel rail. Each connector has a specific length so it will be easy to see which connector to plug into. There is also a big block connector in the middle for the sparks I believe.
There is a separate leg of wires for the front left coolant and camshaft sensors, and throttle position. These I covered in split sleeving and ran them down the left side of the chassis rail.
Finally there is the connector for the crank shaft sensor down the rear on the right side.
The rest I have bundled up for now and laid on top of the engine while I wait to get the body in place.
The idle motor cable I ran down the right side and across the front chassis cross member to the connector on the motor. See; Idle motor location
Further details for connecting things up courtesy of the splendid folk at AK who I have to say are quite splendid people. Especially when it comes to discussing mince pies.
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