As per the AK manual, screen is fitted using a prop to get a 36 inch gap from the top of the screen to the rear of the cockpit. The rubber seal is quite hard to get in to place on the body when the screen is lowered into position. Spray or wipe a small amount of silicon lubricant (of the type that is used to lubricate side windows to run easy in their channels) along the rubber. The screen will sit down in the centre and leave a small gap each side which means the screen will 'rock' slightly around the centre. So, make sure the screen is set down as far as it can go in the centre, then on each side place a small spacer or wedge to get the gap even each side. The screen will then be exactly straight and level on the car.
G-clamp the stays into place on the scuttle uprights and drill through with 6.5mm drill. Now drill the stay with 8mm drill. Insert a 8mm tap and cut the thread in the scuttle. Now secure with 8mm 8.8 bolt. The same can be done with the upper bolt but as the scuttle is open backed here I just drilled 8mm all the way and secured with bolt and nyloc.
On the driver side, be careful locating the upper most bolt. The wiper motor sits here and there is zero clearance between it and the windscreen stay.
Wipers and wiper motor
The wiper blades have a "I'm only here for the IVA. Don't even think about taking me out in the rain" look about them but I'm sure they will be fine.
The splined stud and gear wheel mechanism has a plastic spacer tube cut at an angle. Check that they are both cut the same, I had to file one of mine so it presented the same angle. Check them against the angle of the chrome escutcheon, it should be the same. Use the spacer tube to define the angle of hole to make, and using the soft oblong gasket, position just in front of the windscreen rubber. I have a two wiper system so 10" either side if the centre line. Refer to AK manual for the three wiper system. Three wipers? Really?
The motor mechanism is a bit awkward. I had several attempts, this is how I did it.
Forget the rack (long wire that threads through the wheel mechanisms) for now.
Bolt the motor in place and get it as high up and tilted as much as possible so the nose of it (where the rack will come out) points at the first wheel housing under the first blade.
Align the wheel housings so the entry/exit points for the tube point at each other. Measure and cut the tube for the lengths from the motor to the first housing, then between each housing, and then cut a short piece, about 3" for the end bit.
It isn't strictly required to flare the ends as they are clamped in to position anyway, but if they should move, they can jam against the toothed wheel. Just create a small flare so they can engage in the housing. Assemble it all to check for alignment and correct length.Now take motor off and assemble the rack into the mechanism. There is a small block that sits in the end of the nose and you should have a threaded collar that will locate the first tube onto the nose of the motor. Slap loads of grease in the wheel housings, the wiper motor gear and the rack itself. Thread the rack through each of the tubes and engaging with the toothed wheel. Mount the motor, again getting it to align with the first housing as best you can.
Now with the rack in the tubes, shape the tubes to get the best angle for the tubes into the housings. The thing is we don't want any sharp bends or edges for the rack to rub against. Apart from the angles between the motor and the first bracket, there is the curve of the body to reckon with. Gently press and form the tubes slightly to take account of these curves. Don't try to bend the tube without the rack in and don't use a pipe bender especially without the rack inside the tube. It will kink.Screen Wash
The package from Merlin is cost effective, light and tucks away in front of the passenger footwell.
And that's why I don't have a polished steel bottle sitting up front next to the radiator header.
It comes with black plastic washer jets that have two holes for two streams up onto the screen.
The wiper kit from S&J came with jets that have a chrome dome and perhaps look slightly nicer.
These jets have a movable ball to direct the stream up or down.
The washer jets are a bit urgent with the stream of water. With the pin hole at its lowest point the stream still cleared the top of the screen and soaked the cockpit. Relocating them closer to the screen would only give a small improvement as the bulkhead limits how close it can get to the screen.
These jets have a plastic spacer tube so just like the wiper mechanisms we can drill the hole at an agle of 3-5 degrees and then cut a similar angle from the top of the spacer. That will also leave a thin wedge shape available to go on the top side. In this was we can angle the jet so it hits dead centre of the screen.It works but not sure if it will stay.
The jet that came with the screen wash kit will probably be better, just that it's a bit black.
But it does have two jet outlets and looks cute.
